Collar Conditioning for the Gundog
How to create a good foundation with the
Electronic Remote Trainer
Phyllis Giroux, DVM
Jack Jagoda
We read with interest the article in last month’s
issue about the "Shock Collar as a Last Resort". In
the past 20 years that we have been using
Electronic Remote Trainers to train dogs, we have
never considered them as a last resort, but simply
as the most effective and humane way to have a
reliable dog for obedience, field trialing, or hunting.
While every trainer will use the electronic collar in a
different manner, all trainers will agree that the dog
must first be "conditioned" to the use of the collar
before it can be an effective tool in the field.
All the Electronic Remote Trainers with which we
are familiar come with manuals that describe a
basic training technique that will be most effective.
We have just completed an updated manual for the
Petsafe Sportdog Trainers, and will be happy to
send you a copy, upon request.* There are
numerous books, articles, and videos that are
available today. We will briefly outline the best way
to effectively use an Electronic Trainer.
The dog already has a good
understanding of basic
obedience as taught with a
collar and check cord. Work
initially in a distraction free
area. To introduce the
Remote Trainer, you will
need to determine the dog’s
"recognition level", that is
the level at which he
perceives he is receiving a
stimulation from the collar.
That perception is indicated by a lift of the ears, a
cock of the head, or a head shake. This gives us a
level that the dog perceives, but does not punish or
terrify the dog to an extent that he cannot think or
learn.
Once you determine this level, you repeat all basic
obedience exercises using the trainer to reinforce
each command, and the rope to guide the dog to
perform the proper behavior.
For example, for "come",
let the dog wander away
10 –15 feet, then pick up
and pull the rope while
applying continuous
stimulation (at the
predetermined
recognition level), and
say come. Continue
applying stimulation until
the dog is at your side. After two or three
repetitions the dog learns that the quicker he
returns to you, the quicker the stimulation turns off,
and he is delighted to come when called and be at
your side!
You repeat this same
procedure for your sit
and heel commands,
until the dog is
responding quickly and
smoothly. Now that you and your
dog understand how the
trainer works, start
introducing some
distractions. Go to a
field, or a park, or a
shopping area. You may
find that the recognition
level that worked for your
dog in the back yard is no longer effective.
Gradually increase the
intensity of the
stimulation just to the
point where your signal
from the Trainer
overrides the distraction.
Repeat all obedience
commands. You will
probably only need to
give a few stimulations
to remind your faithful
friend that you are in control, no matter how exciting
the ball game or other distractions are.
You can at this time try to work without the leash,
but always have it handy. If you progress too
quickly, your dog will make mistakes and you will
both get discouraged.
Work your dog with his Remote Trainer in hunting
scenarios, around guns and birds, retrieving
bumpers, using calls and decoys, in and out of
boats, on land and in water. This is how he learns
you truly have "the long arm of control" in your hand.
He will respect this, and begin to understand that
you are a team, he is not out there on his own, but
must trust you to help him, as you trust him to locate
scent, put game before the gun, and retrieve
downed game.
Use the lowest level of stimulation that produces a
trained response from your dog, not the higher
levels that intimidate and punish him. You will find
that once he understands all commands in all
situations, you will only need to use the momentary
stimulation (or nick) to get him back on track.
You will have much more control of your friend and
hunting companion. Think of the remote trainer as
an invisible leash. It should always be there to keep
your dog safe from harm, and under control.
The author of the article is very lucky that his dog
did not panic and bolt when applying the stimulation
from the electronic trainer for the first time in the
field. That is what most dogs do if they are not
"collar conditioned" at home before they go out the
hunting field.
All our basic work and preparation involves helping
the dog to understand that he can turn off the
stimulation by complying with the command. This is
the foundation for all advanced training. We can
talk more about that in future segments.
We have just completed filming a video for
Gundogs Unlimited viewers and readers showing
you exactly how this works. It should be available
right after the first of the year. In the meantime, go
slowly, take your time, and respect your dog.
Phyllis Giroux, DVM
Jack Jagoda
Deep Run Farm
www.DeepRunRetrievers.com
Note about the authors:
Jack and Phyllis have each been training and
trialing retrievers since the late 1970’s.Jack owned
and campaigned the first ever Master Hunting
Retriever.
They have 5 State Gun Dog Champions, and
over a hundred Hunt Test Titles to their credit. They own and operate Deep Run Farm, a
Hunting Retriever breeding and training facility in
Virginia.